The Best Breakfast & Brunch Spots on Martha's Vineyard

by Vera Thornton

Breakfast has always been a favorite of mine – it gets the day off to a good start with no dishes to clean up. And we get the opportunity to dine out without doing so much damage to the pocketbook . These breakfast and brunch restaurants range from simple to gourmet, in a variety of different settings and locations all over the beautiful island of Martha's Vineyard.



Edgartown

Harbor View Hotel and Resort
131 North Water Street, Edgartown
(508) 627–3761


The Water Street Restaurant in the spectacularly renovated Harbor View Hotel is truly elegant, with exceptional food, flawless presentation, and one of the best views on the island. It is a wonderful experience, perfect for any special occasion. Daily breakfast and Sunday brunch are served in the floor-to-ceiling windowed dining room overlooking idyllic Edgartown Harbor with its historic lighthouse. The smoked salmon with cream cheese, red onions, and capers is my favorite brunch indulgence! Reservations accepted.

Among the Flowers Café
17 Mayhew Lane, Edgartown
(508) 627-3233

This is a homey little place with blue-checked tablecloths and a flower-filled patio, one of the few spots where you can dine outside on the Vineyard. They have wonderful waffles and lattes, and indoor dining is available if you prefer. Rachel Ray liked the homemade granola so much that she put the Flowers' recipe on her food network website! Click on their name above to see it. No reservations accepted.






The Edgartown Inn
56 North Water Street, Edgartown
(508) 627-4794

This whaling captain’s home became an inn in the early 1800’s, and has been serving a full country breakfast to their guests and the public ever since. It's small and quaint, and feels like being in someone's home. Outdoor seating is available in the courtyard, and the homemade muffins are wonderful. Reservations accepted.

Dock Street Coffee Shop
Dock Street, Edgartown
(508) 627-5232

This is a genuine greasy spoon that hasn't changed at all in years, an unexpected delight in toney Edgartown. The menu is basic and inexpensive, and the same cook has been there forever. He knows what over-easy means. The food is regarded by locals as the best cure going for a hangover. No reservations accepted.

Vineyard Haven

Art Cliff Diner, Vineyard Haven
(508) 693-1224

This is an extremely popular local place, which has been “discovered” in the last few years. It’s a vintage diner, relatively small, with about 12 tables and 6 seats at the counter, and no reservations are taken. The waiting line on a Sunday morning usually fills up the whole parking lot. That’s because the food is superb, creative, plentiful, and you can see a lot of interesting people, celebrity types included. My favorite breakfast dish is the Bull's Eye - poached eggs and a codfish cake over arugula, covered with Hollandaise.




The Black Dog Tavern
20 Beach Street Extension, Vineyard Haven Harbor
(508) 693-9223

Scenically located on the harbor, you can watch the ferry boats and other graceful sailing vessels as they come and go. The Black Dog has been an island tradition for decades, since Captain Robert Douglas started it in 1969, because at that time there was no year-round restaurant in Vineyard Haven. Can you even imagine? Ever since, it's been a favorite and it’s easy to see why: great atmosphere, gorgeous view, delicious breakfast. No reservations taken. The Green Monstah Breakfast Burrito is healthy and delicious, with spinach, asparagus, broccoli, and cheese. Yummy!

Oak Bluffs

The Slice of Life
50 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs
(508) 693-3838

This little gem is a café-bakery with a relaxed atmosphere, fabulous food, and friendly service. It’s a hip local spot owned by the couple who used to also own the Sweet Life Café across the street. Proven credentials in the culinary world! Try the Campground Scramble: Black Forest ham, carmelized onions, and Swiss cheese - fantastic! If you have room left, the desserts are divine, too. No reservations accepted for breakfast.

Park Corner Bistro
20H Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs
(508) 696-9922

This is an elegant little place with a small bar that serves Sunday Brunch. If you’re in Oak Bluffs and looking for something a little more upscale, try this one. It's worthy of a celebration. The Portuguese Sweet Bread French Toast keeps me coming back. Pair it with a mimosa and you're on the way to a memorable Sunday.




Linda Jean’s
25 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs
(508) 693-4093

If you want a break from the gourmet world, this is the place to go. With tasty, hearty food, Linda Jean's is a casual, unpretentious spot with large portions and affordable prices. A favorite all year round, and an outstanding value. Comfortable booths, just right for families. Great big, fluffy pancakes go perfectly with the spicy sausage patties. No reservations accepted. Leave your name with the hostess and receive a beeper on which you will be paged when your table is ready.

Aquinnah
The Aquinnah Shop
At the Cliffs, Aquinnah
(508) 645-3867

Owned and operated by native Wampanoags, it's worth the drive for the view alone, but the food is also terrific, and you can sit outside and see the clay cliffs. The Tomahawk Special is a winner: poached eggs and fish cakes covered with salsa and melted cheese. No reservations accepted.


Photo credits:

Photo #1 & #2 - Harbor View Hotel and Resort
Photo #3 - Tom Harpel
Photo #4 - The Black Dog
Photo #6 - Brandon Martin-Anderson

Walking Trails on Martha's Vineyard

By Vera Thornton

Whether you’re a serious hiker or a casual stroller, you’ll definitely want to bring your sneakers and go for a trail walk while you’re on the Vineyard. The island is lucky to have several conservation organizations that have preserved acres and acres of open space with over 50 marked public trails, open to everyone all year-round. There’s a great pocket-size book called Walking Trails of Martha’s Vineyard by William Flender that’s a useful tool for walkers. Here are some of my favorites:

Edgartown

Sheriff’s Meadow Sanctuary
This is a 17-acre preserve that offers a short easy walk, and it’s practically in downtown Edgartown. It’s a grassy meadow with lovely vistas of Nantucket Sound and Eel Pond, where two swans can regularly be spotted. The large freshwater pond is Old Ice House Pond, with a variety of wildlife, including kingfishers, comorants, otters, and muskrats.

Directions: Take Main Street in Edgartown to Pease’s Point Way to Planting Field Way - it’s .2 miles on the right. Dogs are welcomed on leashes. A Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation property.

Caroline Tuthill Wildlife Preserve
A tranquil walk through pine woods and marshes beside Sengekontacket Pond. A couple of moderate hills, views of the pond, and a granite bench for resting about half way through the trail. This is a self-guided nature walk. The numbers in the brochure provided at the trailhead correspond to numbered markers along the trail. Dogs are welcomed on leashes.

Directions: From downtown Edgartown, travel 0.5 miles on the Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road. Parking area on the side of the road.  A Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation property.

Chilmark

Waskosim’s Rock
The rock is a huge boulder created by glacier movement eons ago, with a fissure down the middle created by a lightning bolt. People say the rock looks like a breaching whale, see what you think. It sits on one of the highest peaks on the island, where you have a dramatic view of Vineyard Sound. This 185 acre property was set to be developed into a multitude of houses when it was acquired by the M.V. Land Bank in 1990. Instead, it’s a vast area of unspoiled rolling hills and valleys. What a conservation success story!

Directions: To get there from down-island follow North Road past the West Tisbury-Chilmark town line. It’s on the left before the intersection with Tea Lane.  A Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property.


Great Rock Bight
Another big rock! But do you know what a “bight” is? It’s another word for “bay,” and that’s where this boulder sits. A short, steep trail through difficult terrain leads down to a gorgeous 1300 foot stretch of sandy beach on Vineyard Sound with views of the Aquinnah cliffs. Hiking and swimming at the same place – what could be better? There is also a handicapped-accessible, wide and shady level walking trail through tall trees and grassy fields, and restroom facilities. Note that in the summer pets are not allowed on the beach between 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m.

Directions: Travel 3.8 miles on North Road after its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury; turn right at land bank logo and follow signs to trailhead. It’s easy to miss this one if you’re not looking, as the sign is very low to the ground. Parking and access are limited – in the summer go early or you may be turned away.  A Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property.


 
Menemsha Hills
This is my all-time favorite, not because it offers so many beautiful vistas and is a little challenging, but because it’s LONG! It takes a minimum of an hour if you’re pushing, closer to two is not unusual. There are two intersecting trail loops through woods and wetlands, up a hill to one of the highest points on the Vineyard, and down a steep sandy path to a rocky beach. There is a wooden observation deck with a bench for a little sit-down. The views are staggering: you can see both the north and south coasts, the village of Menemsha, the Elizabeth Islands, and the Aquinnah Lighthouse. In season there are free printed trail maps and an independent, self-guided tour. In season a toilet is also provided. Dogs are not allowed on this walk.

Directions: Travel about 7 miles on North Road from its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury. Entrance is just past Tabor House Lane on the right. The sign is a small green and white one that hangs a little higher than eye level.  A Trustees of Reservations property.

For more information about Martha’s Vineyard conservation organizations, visit the following addresses:

The Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation
www.sheriffsmeadow.org
(508) 693-5207

Martha's Vineyard Land Bank Commission
http://www.mvlandbank.com
(509) 627-7141

The Trustees of Reservations
www.thetrustees.org
(781) 784-0567

Photo Credits: Courtesy of The Trustees of Reservations

April On Martha's Vineyard

by Vera Thornton

It’s springtime and we’re all anxious to get out and enjoy the outdoors again. Luckily, the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary on Martha’s Vineyard has scheduled events every weekend during the month of April that are inexpensive and fun for the entire family. Felix Neck is owned and operated by the Massachusetts Audubon Society and members receive discounted ticket prices. April is a wonderful time to visit Martha’s Vineyard and I hope that you can include a few of these events to make your visit enjoyable and memorable.

Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary – April, 2008 Events:

Osprey Festival
Saturday, April 12th - 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

This is the 15th annual festival for this bird of prey, also known as the fishhawk - it feeds exclusively on live fish, diving into the water feet first to catch one. Activities include a craft tent, guided walks, live raptors, and more. Did you know that osprey’s mate for life? Which makes them a favorite of mine! Come and celebrate this remarkable bird.

Admission Fee:
Members: $3.00; Non-members: $6:00

Woodcock Wandering
Tuesday, April 15th & Wednesday, April 16th – 7:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

What a romantic bird – it only mates at sunset! Then it struts around a little, flies into the air about 200 feet, and spirals back down to the ground – all to impress the females. We’ll be watching and hoping to catch one of these impressive performances.

Admission Fee:
Members: Free; Non-members: $5.00

Moonrise Meander
Sunday, April 20th – 7:30 p.m.

Doesn’t this sound wonderful: a guided walk in the moonlight. The full moon will be rising over Sengekontacket Pond as the sun sets over the marsh and fields behind you. Suzan Bellincampi, Sanctuary Director, will be your guide on this brisk early evening walk. Dress for the weather and bring a flashlight.

Admission:
Members: Free; Non-members: $5.00; Children under 8 are free.

Work for Wildlife-Volunteer Day
Saturday, April 26th – 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon

Felix Neck Garden Party: Help us get our butterfly garden ready for summer; participate in bench building and be on hand for feeding time (12:00 -1:00 p.m.) at Felix Neck. This event is fun for the whole family.
Admission Fee: Free

Salamanders & Sundaes
Sunday, April 27th – 1:00 p.m. to 2:00 p.m.
Celebrate spring with an ice cream social and a salamander stroll. We’ll search under rocks, logs, and leaf litter for red backed salamanders and top the walk off by making sundaes.

Admission Fee:
Members: $2.00; Non-members: $4.00; Children under 3 free

Pinkletink Prowls
Wednesday, April 30th – 7:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Listen to the cacophony of pinks and tinks from the frogs as we take a walk to some of the different ponds at Felix Neck to listen for the male pinkletinks calling for their mates. These tiny little male frogs softly begin their nightly mating calls as they thaw from their winter hibernation. As the temperature continues to warm, they create a symphony of spring that islanders wait for every year.

Admission Fee:
Members: Free; Non-members: $5.00

For More Information, visit: Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary

Photo #2: Justen Walker
Photo #3: Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary